Day 32 - 28 April 2019 Sunday - Paris

On Sunday in Paris I would normally have gone to Notre Dame and lit a candle for Flashy, but alas that option is not currently available to me.

I had a look in a real estate agent's window this morning and there goes my thoughts of retirement here.  An apartment in the area is going to cost at least 1 million Euros, so sort of double that for Aussie dollars.

Another walk around day, walked to Nappy's tomb and back.  The area around the Hotel les Invalides is under construction with the set up for the formula e grand prix.  I think that is what it is and it is obviously going to be a road circuit race, all the big car firms appear to be represented including Jaguar and BMW and will be racing electric vehicles.

Napoleon's tomb, one of a number of great corporals who attempted to conquer Europe.

On my walk I came across an imposing building set behind imposing gates and across the front of the building was a sign saying something like 'National HQ Guard de Republic', before I even thought about taking a photo I saw a very imposing gentleman in uniform carrying a large and imposing sub-machine gun appearing to take an interest in me.  Therefore discretion being the better part of valour I departed the scene.  I didn't get a photo but I bet they got one of me, which is probably now on an Interpol notice board next to the ageing photo of the guy who stole all the free chocolates in Ypres.

It was a nice day for a walk and lunch of chicken club sandwich and crepes with beer and wine on the way back to the hotel.

The Hotel de Seine is a very old and traditional 3 star Parisian hotel.  The rooms are small in the Parisian style and the elevator is tiny.  The elevator has room for one person with bags or two people without bags. Although the hotel is a little tired the rooms are very clean and comfortable and the bathrooms are reasonably modern with plenty of hot water.  Air conditioning has been installed sometime in the last 20 years.  The best thing about it is it's location, it is in the middle of the suburb of St Germaine, just off the Bvd St Germain.  It is close to restaurants and bars, close to at least two metro stations and within walking distance of many of the attractions that Paris has to offer.  The staff are also helpful and speak at least some English.

Room in Belle Epoque style

Fun Fact: Had a walk through a produce market today, very disappointed in the lack of free samples.

Market - no freebies!

Step Count: 13,302

Observation:  You see lots of people drinking but it is rare to see any drunks.

Day 31 - 27 April 2019 Saturday - Paris

These last three days in Paris are going to be a bit like R & R, I have nothing organised and nothing that I really have to do.  

Paris today has been cold and very windy, with one particularly heavy rainstorm.  Luckily I was indoors having lunch when the rain came through.

I thought that I would have a bit of a wander and possibly end up at the Musee d'Orsay.  This musee is actually an art gallery of French art from 1880 to 1914 and is located in a converted railway station.  I am not that interested in French art (from any period) but apparently the building and interior is stunning and well worth the visit.  

But first up I walked to Notre Dame cathedral, or as close as I could get to it anyway. As you could imagine the streets around it are closed off with lots of scaffolding and building material already on site.  So I took some photos and continued on my sojourn.

Now, one of my astute readers has made a comment, by SMS, that I haven't  posted any selfies.  I responded politely and advised that I don't do selfies.  Anyway as I have posted a food pic I have decided to break all the rules and descend into total anarchy and post a selfie, see below, and don't expect anymore!

A long and rambling walk, as you can see from the step count, took me from Notre Dame along the Seine to the entrance of the Louvre and then through the Jardin Tiuleres to the Place de Concorde at the bottom of the Champs Elysees.  My intention to walk along the CE was thwarted as it appeared to be closed off.  I don't know if this was done for security reasons as the 'yellow vests' were out and about again or due to something else going on.

Wouldn't be Paris without this pic

So onto plan 'C', crossed the bridge that used to have all the locks on it until it collapsed and then walked back up through St Germain stopping for a late lunch on the way.

I will tell you a little about the suburb of St Germain, which is where I am staying.  St Germain is on the left bank (of the Seine) and has traditionally been hangout of the arty and literary set, think Hemingway, Wilde and Orwell amongst others, the bistro Deux Magots was a hang out for these people and is just around the corner from me.  It is very touristy but also a residential area for local Parisians, typical of Paris the locals live in apartments over the shops.  In the area my hotel is in there are a lot of commercial art galleries selling very esoteric and expensive art, high end interior design shops and lots of speciality shops.  The Boulevard St Germain is one of Paris' great boulevards, once again lined with expensive looking shops and is always busy.  There is also one of Paris' major universities nearby so there a lots of younger folk around and lots of international students.  Nearby is Jardin du Luxembourg one of Paris' much loved public gardens where the children still hire a toy yacht to sail on one of the big fountains.  (Plus big kids sailing their remote controlled yachts and today a guy with a remote control submarine).  Because so many of the Parisians live in apartments with their children and dogs the parks are like their back yard to them.

Street scene from my bedroom window

The restaurants, bistros and cafes all have tables and chairs set up on the footpaths and it is a pleasure to sit at one of the little tables and sip a drink or two and watch the passing parade.

Field HQ 2012 B & B tour and typical bar for the area (also taken early morning)

Dinner tonight was at Chalet Gregoire that promotes itself as traditional regional French cooking.  I made the mistake of stopping to look at the menu in the window and the old guy out the front pretty much grabbed me by the elbow and dragged me inside.  For those of you who may be interested for entree I had a salmon tartare (which was interesting), main course was a lamb shank roasted in honey with little boiled potatoes and green beans which was delicious  and finished off with a chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream.  This was accompanied by a half bottle of 2015 Chateau La Tonnelle from Bordeaux.  (It is going to be difficult to come back to baked beans on toast for dinner).


Fun Fact: In France 'French onion soup' is just called 'onion soup', makes sense when you think of it.  And it is delicious.

Step count: 13,860

Observation: Although it is almost a caricature of a the French you do see them walking from the bakery in the morning with one or two fresh baguettes under their arm.  And if it is a French man he will have broken the end off the loaf and will be munching on that as he goes on his way.

Day 30 - 26 April 2019 Friday - travel from Ypres to Paris

My original intention today was to drive to CDG drop off the car and grab a cab to my hotel (the Hotel De Seine) in Paris.  However due to my change of car in Amiens I am now dropping off the car in Amiens and catching the train to Paris.  This train trip is a bit over an hour and delivers me to Gare De Nord. I will catch a cab from there to the hotel.

I am a little concerned about what the yellow shirts are up to.  Yesterday I was talking to some Australians who had been in Paris last weekend.  They said that the disruptions, particularly to the metro were fairly significant, and that the riot police were everywhere.  Anyway I will play it by ear and keep out of harms way.

The Australians also told me that the Gypsies are back in town in a big way.  I daresay they are taking advantage of the police being distracted by other matters.

I am sorry to be leaving Ypres as it is a lovely town with good restaurants and bars, delicious chocolates and beer and friendly, if reserved, folk.  It is also a town with a lot of history and a particular resonance for Australians.  I may have mentioned this before but it is the only place on the Western front where we know all 60 battalions of the AIF served during TGW.

I arrived at Gare De Nord at about 5.00pm after a pleasant train trip from Amiens chatting to an Australian couple from Kyabram in Victoria.  I thought I would be having a beer in the 2012 Battlefields and Burgundy trip field HQ by 6.00pm but the wait for a cab and the Paris peak hour traffic put paid to that.  The traffic wasn't just horrendous it was mayhem.  Added to the usual mix of cars, buses, motorbikes, motor scooters and bicycles are these new electric scooters, they are everywhere and I had a cab driver who had no idea where he was going.

Anyway I eventually checked into the Hotel De Seine and was having a beer on the Boulevard Saint Germain by 7.00pm. 

Dinner tonight was at a restaurant I attended two years ago.  Like then I also had the entrecote but having learnt my lesson I had it cooked medium which still came out rare (last time I was here I had my steak rare and it came out blue), you only catch me out once.  It was a nice piece of steak served with some salad, chips and mushroom sauce.  I thought the waiter was going to hit me when I asked for some mustard, lucky I didn't ask for tomato sauce.  Anyway all was forgiven and I received a complimentary drink at the end of my meal.

A quick wander around the local streets around my hotel before bed.  Being Friday night the place was buzzing with lots of locals and tourists out and about.

Fun fact: The Belgians love their push bikes, not lycra clad lads on racing bikes, but good solid citizens on good solid bicycles.  I have even seen some bikes here with the old dynamo providing power to the lights.

Step count: 4,294

Observation:  Sounds of Europe:  Over revving motor scooters on the Boulevard Saint Germain

Day 29 - 25 April 2019 Thursday - Ypres - Anzac Day

Up at 3.30am this morning, yes you have read right, 3.30am in the morning to attend the dawn service at Polygon Wood. These are the things that your dedicated correspondent does to get to the heart of the story for you my learned, educated and entertained reader.

Seriously though folk, this was a very emotional dawn service.  The Buttes New British Cemetery is one of the larger cemeteries in the area, there are 2,000 odd graves of which 1,700 contain a 'soldier of the Great War, known unto god'.  Of 564 Australian burials, 407 are unidentified.  This cemetery is also the site of a major New Zealand memorial and on the buttes overlooking it all is the 5th Div AIF memorial.

5th Div memorial and graves pre dawn

So you can start to imagine the atmosphere standing amongst these graves, many of them unknown, during a simple and touching service.  There was a band there from Rossmoyne High School in Australia and a choir from the NZ Maori Arts & Crafts Institute. The Ypres fire brigade buglers played the last post and rouse and two pipers played the lament, the Belgium military provided the catafalque party and the guard on the 5th Div memorial.  It is hard to estimate the number of attendees, but I would suggest that it was well attended.  Although not bitterly cold it was cold enough to say 'crikey its a bit chilly' even though well rugged up.

After the service I was going to attend the breakfast at Zonnebeke.  I changed my mind and instead I picked up the car and drove to Paschendaele where I picked up a delicious filled roll and a coffee and drove to the Canadian memorial at Crest Farm.  This overlooks the Ypres battlefield where the Australians attempted to take Paschendaele and failed at great loss to them.  The Canadians also at great loss were eventually successful hence the Canadian memorial.  Although cold and blustery it was a good spot to have some breakfast and a quiet contemplation.

From here I drove to the big cemetery at Tyne Cot.  The road to Tyne Cot follows the 10th Brigade boundary of their unsuccessful attack on Paschendaele it also goes past where Lewis McGee of the 40th Battalion stormed a German bunker, an action that resulted in him being awarded a VC.  After a quick wander through Tyne Cot I headed back into Ypres to attend the service at the Menin Gate and Belgian memorial.

I will post some photos of both of these services once I get somewhere where the Wi Fi is robust enough to let me do so.  Good wi fi in the bar so getting some photos posted.

There is the normal 8.00pm service at the Menin Gate this evening and that will about see me out for commemoration services for a little while.

Lunch today was shrimp croquettes, salad, chips and beer.

Last night's dinner was one of the best meals I have had while I have been away.  I had a pork loin with potato croquettes and and mustard sauce and little chopped up vegetables followed by icecream with cream and chocolate topping.  The Belgians love their desserts and when you are sitting there watching them scoff into big bowls of icecream it is hard to resist.

Fun Fact:  I actually got a Belgian to smile even a laugh!  Last night when I was having dinner a family entered the restaurant and the last person in didn't close the door and it was chilly enough to be noticeable.  I looked up to see who the miscreant was and I caught the eye of a Belgian gentleman (about the same age as me) who was also looking to see what was going on.  Anyway one of the party that came in came back to close the door and the Belgian chap and I sort gave a bit of a nod that everything was now OK.  Anyway, later as the Belgian was leaving he said 'goodnight and have a good journey' and I said 'thank you and make sure you shut the door', this got a laugh from him and his companions.

Step count: 8,515

Observation: The businesses here must be battling a bit after the wind down from TGW centennial events as there are a number of closed restaurants and cafes around the market square and some other businesses are trading on limited hours. 

Day 28 - 24 April 2019 Wednesday - Ypres

A bit of domestic stuff today mainly checking arrangements for the various Anzac Day services scheduled for tomorrow.

I had a phone call from the AEC at 3.00am this morning checking if I am still available to work at the election, I understand that one has been called. I didn't answer the phone at 3.00am but rang them back at a more reasonable hour, for me anyway.

The people have spoken so I will publish a pic of a shrimp croquette as long as the wi fi holds up (I have discovered how to down load photos from my phone).

Shrimp croquette

The North Sea shrimp is quite ugly, worm like in appearance and in its natural state most unappetising, how they make them into delicious croquettes has got me beat. You can see some in the pic being used as a garnish.

The dawn service tomorrow is being held at Polygon Wood at the Buttes cemetery and the 5th Div memorial.  Because parking is limited in the area I have to park at one of the car parks for the nearby amusement park and then be bussed to Polygon wood.  The shuttle bus starts running from 4.30am for a 6.00am dawn service, going to be an early morning and a long day.  I drove there today to have a look at the arrangements so that I am not trying to find my way in the dark tomorrow morning.

The car park at the amusement park is very close to where the iconic photo of the Australian soldiers at Chateau wood was taken by Frank Hurley in 1917 during the battle of Passchendaele.  (The large photo at the end of TGW section of the Shrine with the soldiers walking along the duckboards).

After the dawn service there is a breakfast at Zonnebeke, a service at Tyne Cot, two services in Ypres, one at the Menin Gate and another at the Belgium Memorial and then a service at Toronto Road cemetery at Ploegsteert Wood (Plugstreet Wood to the Aussies) near Messines and the usual 8.00pm service at the Menin Gate.  Not sure if I will get to all of them or not, but will see how it goes.

As part of a bit of a drive around I visited the big German cemetery at Langemark and then came back to Ypres and walked the ramparts walk and then rewarded myself with a large beer and some corn chips.

Langemark German cemetery

Fun Fact: Still some of the old Contiki busses around, ahhhh the memories.

Step count: 9,125 (before going out for dinner)

Observations:  There are a few Australians around but I thought that there may have been more.

Day 27 - 23 April 2019 Tuesday - Ypres

A different day today, I visited some parts of the Belgium battlefields that have little association with the AIF, although one place I visited was the scene of an action that resulted in two Australians being awarded Military Medals (MM) in somewhat unusual circumstances.

First up I drove to the small Flemish town of Diksmuide that is about 15 kilometres northish of Ypres.  This was one of the front line towns on the small part of the Western front that was held by the Belgium army.  In Diksmuide there is a stunning memorial tower to the men of Flanders that served in the Belgium army in TGW.  This is a complicated story that not only involves the defence of Belgium but the nationalistic movement by the people of Flanders and their later collaboration with the Germans in the 2nd WW.  Rather than me try to explain all this, if you are interested have a look on Wikipedia on this intynet thingy.

A tower was built on this site after TGW but that was blown up after the 2nd WW as some thought that the Flemish got a bit too chummy with the German occupiers.  Not to be outsmarted the Flemish built another larger more dominant tower on the same site.

In very simple terms Belgium is comprised of two ethnic groups the Flemish, in Flanders who speak a form of Dutch and the Walloons in the rest of Belgium who speak French.  The Flemish have always thought that they were hard done by and that the Walloons sort of run the joint.  Due to this schism Belgium has been unable to form an effective national government for years.

Anyway, I digress, the tower is a massive concrete monolith 22 stories high with a viewing platform at the top.  You go to the top by lift (thank goodness) and then come back down the stairs, however at each level on the way down is a museum floor talking mainly about TGW experience in this part of Belgium.  The lower floors look at the building of the tower and the the Flemish nationalist movement.

After visiting the tower I headed off to the Belgium seaside town of Nieuwpoort, this town is at the mouth of the Yser river.  The Yser and its surrounds were flooded by the clever Belgiums hence stopping the German advance in 1914.  The British/Belgium lines occupied the western bank of the river and the German lines were some 100 metres to the west.  The lines remained relatively static for the balance of the war.

Now I can hear you all saying 'Graeme, what has this to do with the Australians in TGW?'  Well gentle reader read on and learn.  About 50 Australians from the 2nd Aust Tunnelling Company were based here digging a tunnel under the German lines.  On 10 July 1917 the Germans launched a surprise attack and along with 2 battalions of British soldiers they captured most of the Australians.  Four Australians escaped and one of the Australians swam across the Yser with a rope which allowed about 80 British soldiers to escape.  Sappers Burke and Coade were awarded the Military Medal for their role in this withdrawal.  Another Australian Sapper O'Connell was awarded the DSM for his role in rescuing a drowning British soldier.  

After a long walk I reached the end of the pier at the mouth of the Yser.  Whilst here I realised that I was also at the northern end of the Western Front.  The Western Front running from the French/Swiss border to this very point on the North Sea in Belgium.  I hadn't done this deliberately but I was pretty chuffed all the same.

Dinner tonight was a well deserved shrimp croquet and plaice.

To the guys and gals at the Shrine good luck for Anzac Day, I know that it is a long day for a lot of you but it is a very rewarding day as well.  I will ensure that I raise a glass (or two) of Passchendaele beer in respectful commemoration, Cheers!

Still experiencing dodgy Wi FI and causing problems downloading pics, will try and load some photos at another time.

Fun Fact: I still can't get a Belgium to smile (some readers of my earlier trip blogs will recall my daily efforts to get a Belgium to smile; it doesn't count if they are taking money off you).

Step Count: 11,886 (seems like heaps more)

Observation: EU subsidies must be up this year, it seems like every Belgium farmer is driving a very big new tractor and remember they have very very small farms.  No wonder the Poms want out.

Day 26 - 22 April 2019 Monday - Drive from Amiens to Ypres via Etaples 

I used to come to Belgium to visit the battlefields now I come here for the prawn croquettes and beer.

Anyway before I get to the croquettes and beer I have to get to Belgium, Ypres in particular.

I have decided to drive to Ypres via the French town of Etaples.  Etaples is a town on the English Channel and was the site of probably the major support, supply and medical facility for the British army in France during TGW.  At any one time there would have been 10 of thousands of British (including Australian) troops in the area including up to 20 military hospitals.  Etaples was also the site for the infamous 'Bull Ring'.  When the British soldiers were returning to the the front from hospitals or long leaves in England they had to pass through one of the 'toughening up' camps in Etaples.  One of these camps was known as the 'Bull Ring' and was well known for its iron discipline and onerous physical activities.  The closest that the British military came to a mutiny occurred at Etaples due to the harsh treatment of the troops there by the staff of the Bull Ring.

As with many of these sites the only thing remaining from TGW is the Etaples military cemetery.  Given the area was the location for a number of military hospitals the cemetery here is massive, over 11,000 graves including soldiers and support people from all over Britain, the Dominions, India and even one lonely grave of a Chinese labourer and a number of German graves.  Surprisingly there are only 450 Australians buried here, given the numbers I would have thought there would have been more.  I thought that there was an Australian hospital in Etaples so I wonder where the  deceased from this hospital are buried.  A little research project for later on.

There are also a small number of graves from the 2nd WW including a RAAF crew member who died in this area in 1943.

After a little time here, back in the Peugot 2008 for an easy 150km drive to Ypres.  I arrived at about 1.45pm and my room at the Novotel wasn't ready, so park the car and zoooooooom around the corner to the market square and by 2.00 I was ordering a Passchendaele beer and shrimp croquettes for lunch.  Delicious!

After lunch I visited the tourist information centre and picked up some info for my proposed foray to the northern battlefields tomorrow.

Ypres is a lovely little city and it is impossible to believe that what you see is almost entirely rebuilt after TGW.

Fun Fact: After TGW Winston Churchill wanted to leave Ypres in ruins as a memorial to the TGW (another of Winnie's better ideas?), anyway the locals thought differently and returned to their town and started to rebuild.

Step count: 7,895

Observation:  If Trumpy wants to find out how to build a fence he should send someone to Calais.  During my drive I bypassed Calais but you should see the fences around the railway lines, trucking depots etc.